Mosfellsbær: Your Quiet Base for Autumn Hiking Near Reykjavík

Why Mosfellsbær Works as a Hiking Base

Mosfellsbær sits at the head of the fjord Kollafjörður, about 20 minutes' drive from downtown Reykjavík via Route 1. It is the last town before the Ring Road turns north, making it a natural stop for travellers heading to Þingvellir or the Golden Circle. The town itself is small, with a handful of guesthouses and a campsite, but its location means you can be on a trail within minutes of leaving your room. In autumn, from September to October, the crowds thin and the birch scrub turns gold.

Unlike staying in Reykjavík, where you face a 45-minute drive to reach the nearest trailhead, Mosfellsbær puts you right at the edge of the wild. The town is also well served by Strætó bus route 15, which runs from Reykjavík's Hlemmur square in about 30 minutes, so a car is helpful but not essential for reaching the town itself. For hiking, though, you will want wheels to reach the more remote trailheads.

Trails from Town: Kollafjörður and Beyond

The easiest walk from Mosfellsbær is along the shoreline of Kollafjörður, where a gravel path runs from the town's marina towards the head of the fjord. It is flat, takes about an hour return, and offers views across the water to Mount Esja. For something steeper, drive five minutes to the trailhead for Reykjafell, a 300-metre hill that gives a panoramic view over the town and the fjord. The climb takes 30–45 minutes and is marked but rough in places.

Serious hikers should head 15 minutes east to the Þingvellir National Park boundary, where the Öxarárfoss trail and the Almannagjá gorge walk are both accessible. These are not loop trails, so arrange a pickup or park a second car. In autumn, the paths can be muddy, so waterproof boots are essential. I would book a guesthouse in Mosfellsbær for two nights and use it as a base for both the fjord walk and the Þingvellir hikes.

Autumn on Esja: The Big Day Out

Mount Esja dominates the skyline north of Reykjavík, and its most popular trailhead, at Mógilsá, is a 15-minute drive from Mosfellsbær. The hike to the plateau at 780 metres takes most people 3–4 hours return, with a steep, rocky section near the top. The reward is a view over the whole of Faxaflói bay. In autumn, the colours are at their best in late September, but the weather can turn quickly, so start early and carry a map and compass.

For a shorter alternative, drive 10 minutes to the trail up to Mount Úlfarsfell, which offers a gentler 2-hour return and good views of Reykjavík and the surrounding lakes. Both trails are popular with locals, so you will not be alone, but they are far quieter than the Golden Circle attractions. I would skip the organized bus tours and hike independently; the trails are well marked and the freedom is worth it.

Where to Stay and What to Skip

Mosfellsbær has a few small hotels and guesthouses, mostly clustered along the main street, Þverholt, and near the marina. Prices are generally lower than in Reykjavík, with double rooms starting around 20,000 ISK in autumn. The town also has a well-equipped campsite open from June to September, but by October it is closed. Book a guesthouse with breakfast included; options are limited, so reserve early, especially for weekends.

Skip the temptation to stay in Reykjavík and commute; the morning traffic on Route 1 can add 20 minutes to your drive. Also skip the large hotels on the outskirts of Reykjavík, which cater to tour groups and lack the personal touch. Instead, choose a family-run guesthouse in Mosfellsbær, where you can get local advice on trail conditions. For dinner, the town has a couple of casual restaurants, but for more choice, drive into Reykjavík.