Getting to the Westman Islands: Ferries, Timing and Day Trips

The Ferry: Your Only Practical Route

Unless you’re on a private boat or a domestic flight from Reykjavík, the ferry is how you reach Heimaey, the only inhabited island in the Westman archipelago. Herjólfur sails from Landeyjahöfn, a purpose-built harbour on the south coast about 130 km (80 miles) from Reykjavík — roughly a 1 hour 45 minute drive in good conditions via Route 1 and then Route 254. The crossing itself takes about 35 minutes, and the boat carries cars, foot passengers and bikes. Book ahead in July and August, when vehicles fill up days in advance; on foot you can usually turn up, but reserving a space costs little and saves stress.

If you’re coming from the east or want to combine the islands with the Golden Circle, note that Landeyjahöfn is a detour from the main Ring Road. From Vík it’s about 50 minutes west. The alternative — the longer ferry from Þorlákshöfn — is rarely worth it now that Landeyjahöfn operates year-round, except when weather cancels the short route. Check the Herjólfur website the morning of travel: North Atlantic swells can stop sailings with little notice, and the crossing is exposed. I’d book a morning departure and keep the afternoon flexible for the return.

When to Go: Weather, Puffins and Crowds

The islands are at their most rewarding from late May to early August, when puffins nest in the cliffs at Stórhöfði and the days are long. July is peak season: the ferry runs more frequently, but Heimaey’s campsite and the handful of guesthouses fill up, so book accommodation before you book the boat. June is my pick — puffins are present, the lupines are out, and the island feels less rushed. September still offers mild weather and fewer visitors, though puffins have largely gone by mid-August. Winter visits are possible but limited: the ferry runs a reduced timetable, many restaurants close, and the wind can make walking the cliffs unpleasant.

Weather is the wild card in any month. The Westman Islands sit exposed to the North Atlantic, and a sunny morning in Reykjavík can mean fog or rain on Heimaey. Pack a waterproof shell and sturdy shoes regardless of forecast. Sea temperatures hover around 8–10°C in summer, so swimming is for the hardy — the local pool in Vestmannaeyjabær is a better bet for a warm soak. If you’re prone to seasickness, the 35-minute crossing is usually fine, but take precautions on windy days. I’d avoid a day trip if a gale warning is in force; the ferry may run, but the island’s main appeal — walking and boat tours — shuts down.

Day Trip or Overnight?

A day trip is feasible: take the 9:00 or 10:00 ferry from Landeyjahöfn, and you’ll have five to six hours on Heimaey before the last return. That’s enough for the ferry terminal walk into town, the Eldheimar museum (powerful exhibit on the 1973 eruption), a stroll along the harbour, and a short drive or walk to the puffin cliffs if you’re quick. But it’s tight if you want to hike Eldfell volcano, join a boat tour to see the puffins from the water, or visit the natural History Museum. And you’ll be watching the clock. For a first visit, I’d book one night — the island’s evening quiet and the chance to see the cliffs without crowds are worth the extra cost.

Overnighting also lets you spread out. With two days, you can hike to the top of Eldfell for views over the 1973 lava flow, take a RIB boat tour around the archipelago (often 1.5 hours, weather permitting), and still have time for the swimming pool and a slow meal at a harbour restaurant. Accommodation is limited — a few guesthouses, a campsite, and simple hotels — so reserve early, especially for July weekends. Staying on Heimaey also means you’re not dependent on the last ferry, which can be cancelled. If your Iceland itinerary is tight, a day trip works, but I’d prioritise a night here over an extra night in Reykjavík.

Getting Around and What to Skip

Heimaey is small — about 13 square kilometres — and the main town, Vestmannaeyjabær, is compact. If you bring a car on the ferry, you can drive to the puffin cliffs at Stórhöfði in ten minutes, and to the Eldfell trailhead in five. Without a car, you can walk from the ferry to the town centre in about 15 minutes, and there are local taxis and a summer bus service. Bicycles can be rented near the harbour. For most visitors, a car is unnecessary unless you’re combining the islands with the south coast, but it does make the cliff drive easier if mobility is limited. Fuel up before Landeyjahöfn; there’s no petrol station on the island.

Skip the souvenir shops in the ferry terminal if you’re short on time — the town has better options. Also skip the urge to climb Eldfell in strong wind; the loose scree can be treacherous. The elephant rock formation at Halldórsskora is a quick photo stop, not a destination. And don’t bother with the ferry’s cafeteria if you can wait — the harbour restaurants serve fresh fish. Finally, if you’re visiting in winter, confirm that the Eldheimar museum and any boat tours are open; many operate on reduced hours. The islands are a highlight of south Iceland, but they demand a little planning.