Driving and Sailing to the Westfjords: Reykjavik Routes Compared

The Road via Route 1 and Route 60

Driving from Reykjavik to Ísafjörður is roughly 600 kilometres and takes most people eight to nine hours with stops. The standard line is Route 1 north through Borgarnes, then Route 60 over the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði pass down into the fjords. Fill up at Borgarnes; after that, stations thin out and some are unmanned card-only pumps. The mountain pass is paved but exposed, and it closes temporarily in winter storms — check road conditions the morning you leave. Guesthouses in Ísafjörður and Suðureyri run from budget rooms to converted timber merchants' houses, with the widest choice between June and August.

The alternative is Route 1 west to the Snæfellsnes peninsula, then the 54/56 up to Stykkishólmur and the Baldur ferry across Breiðafjörður to Brjánslækur, which cuts out the long northern arc. The drive Reykjavik–Stykkishólmur takes about two and a half hours and is easy going. The ferry crossing is short, and from Brjánslækur it is another two hours of gravel-edged road to Ísafjörður. It suits anyone wanting to break the journey at Snæfellsnes rather than push a single long day north. Accommodation in Stykkishólmur and Grundarfjörður fills fast in July.

The Ferry and When It Pays Off

The Baldur sails between Stykkishólmur and Brjánslækur most days, with frequency dropping outside summer; book vehicle space ahead in July and August. Foot passengers are simpler, but without a car you are stranded at Brjánslækur — there is no useful bus connection onwards. If you are coming from the north instead, the Sævar ferry links Norðurfjörður on Strandir with Hólmavík, useful for anyone looping the Strandir coast. Neither crossing is cheap for a car, so weigh the fare against the fuel and the extra night you would otherwise spend in a guesthouse en route.

For most first visits I would book the road through Borgarnes and save the ferry for a second trip. The northern route gives you the Kolugljúfur canyon turn-off and the chance to stop at Hvammstangi on the way home if you return via Route 1. If your time is short, fly from Reykjavik domestic airport to Ísafjörður — the flight is brief and lands you minutes from town — and rent a car locally. That works well for a two- or three-night stay built around hikes to Valagil or Dynjandi.

Where to Base Yourself

Ísafjörður is the natural base: restaurants, a swimming pool, a hospital and the largest spread of hotels and guesthouses in the region. Suðureyri, twenty minutes west down the fjord, is quieter and better for anyone wanting sea views and a short walk to the shore. Þingeyri, forty-five minutes further around, has a handful of rooms and a good beach walk. Farther afield, Patreksfjörður and Bildudalur serve the Látrabjarg cliffs and Rauðasandur beach, best reached in June and July when the light lasts and the tracks are open.

Distances matter here: Ísafjörður to Látrabjarg is about three hours on often gravel roads, so do not plan it as a day trip from town. Instead, split your stay — two nights in Ísafjörður, one or two around Patreksfjörður. Book the smaller guesthouses directly by email if online availability looks empty; several do not list all rooms. Late May and September give you decent daylight with fewer bookings, and September usually has the best balance of weather and availability.

What to Skip and Practical Timing

Skip the temptation to see the Westfjords as a day trip from Reykjavik. The round trip is well over a thousand kilometres, and the roads demand attention. Also skip the interior highland tracks unless you have a properly equipped vehicle and experience; F-roads here are not for casual detours. The Strandir coast north of Hólmavík is beautiful but slow, and if you are short on days it is the section to leave out rather than rush. Snow can linger on the passes into May, and the first autumn storms arrive in October.

For a first trip, I would book three nights in Ísafjörður and drive the Borgarnes route in summer, leaving in the early morning to arrive before dark. For a second visit, I would take the Baldur ferry out and drive back via Hvammstangi, staying a night in Stykkishólmur. Reserve accommodation in Reykjavik for the nights either side of the drive — the city has the broadest choice and the most flexible cancellation — and keep one buffer day for weather. Check safetravel.is before departure and note that fuel, food and opening hours are limited outside the main towns.